Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Ahh, Onsen

Going along with this month's theme of "bodily awkwardness," I thought I might relate my first time at an onsen. Onsen is the Japanese term for hot springs, and it is much like any other spring in which people go to bathe for good health or general relaxation. We stayed at an onsen hotel on Lake Ashi on the Izu peninsula, which is widely known for its gorgeous scenery (it pains me to write that as I'd taken many photos of the lake's cliffs). When you stay at the hotel, everyone also wears a complimentary yukata, pictured at left.

One thing that distinguishes a Japanese hot springs from a Chinese or American one is that one must be completely naked inside. As in no clothes. Butt naked.

Of course, I had heard rumors about this even before going. In fact, a few weeks before our trip the following exchange took place:

Mom: LAG, don't forget to bring your swimsuit so you can bathe in the springs (I don't have one).
LAG: Mom, you can't wear a swimsuit. You have to be naked. It's impolite to wear anything.
Mom: What? That's impossible.

Since my mother never believes anything I say, she opted to ask her Japanese friend in the States who indeed confirmed that one must be completely naked in the springs. Call me conservative, but I'm the kind of person who is deathly afraid of taking public showers at the pool. Everyone may be the same sex, but the last time anyone saw me naked was probably my mother. And I was probably three.

So I had made up my mind then and there to enjoy the waters of the hot springs in the tiny bathroom hotel with a 3-foot-high tub (yes, Jean Hou style :)). When we finally arrived at the hotel, it was late and my mom decided to go downstairs. "Are you coming?" she asked. I politely declined. After all, we had bought a bottle of sake to help with the jet lag, and I thought it nice to have a refreshing glass of alcohol while watching Japanese people try to play human tetris.

However, the next morning my mom awoke me at 5 am and compelled me to try it out. "It's great! If you don't go, you'll regret it." After asking about 50 questions, most of which included, "Is it really steamy inside? So steamy you can barely see?" I agreed to try it out.

She lied.

It's not foggy. It's hot, but you can see VERY CLEARLY inside the hot springs pool, especially since the water is crystal clear. It was an enclosed spaced that looked out onto the lake, and after I got over myself, it was beautiful and quite relaxing. I spent a little too much time cooking because when I stepped out, I felt a little dizzy. Luckily, my clothes were right near the door (pictured at right), so I had easy access out.

Later on we found out that everyone at the hotel pays a hot springs tax, so if you didn't bathe, you basically wasted your money. Despite flagrant deceit by my mom, it was certainly worth the experience. There is nothing like basking in a hot spring with breath-taking scenery in front of you. If I ever had the opportunity, I'd do it again.

I'm definitely going back to Japan someday.

2 comments:

Michael Dausch said...

embrace your naked body viola. embrace it.

J said...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the pictured yukata is for going out to events such as a fireworks festival kind of thing. The yukata worn at an onsen hotel is less decorated and uses a thin obi. Yes, I like to flaunt my knowledge about the Japanese.